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 Post subject: Tacamo Type 68 II Leak?
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:50 pm 
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Hi guys, I have owned my Type 68 for almost a year now, and I noticed I'm going through a lot of air. Well I stuck my ear to my barrel (Not Recommended) and heard a slight hissing sound. I stripped it down to see what it could be. I checked everything but the valve pin seemed hard to punch out so I left it alone. Could there be something I'm not seeing? The valve stem and all other parts look flawless.. I can only think it is the 0-15's on the valve or something... What do you think?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:09 pm 
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Might try running some oil thru it, couple of drops in the asa and shooting air thru it. May just be dry. If not I would guess its a 0-ring somewhere.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 11:17 pm 
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I tried it already... Thanks though..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 11:31 pm 
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Get with Doug, he knows TACAMO for some reason. :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 1:59 am 
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I dont have the schematics of the valve but I imagine there is a cupseal in it...More than likely any air leaking out of the valve on a stack tubed blow back will be the cupseal...PM Doug about it though...either way he may have to send you at a replacement part.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 5:09 am 
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Doug said somewhere that the AK guns use spyder cupseals. i imagine it´s what you need as it´s leaking out the barrel...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 5:59 am 
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They beat me to it. Sounds like a cup seal to me as well. I used my spare Tacamo cup seal in the Spyder so they are the same.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 7:15 pm 
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Thanks guy's.. The Tacamo AK's are Spyder Clones. They use all the same parts except for the bolt and a few other parts. I have already put a Spyder E-Trigger on it with NO problems what so ever with out having to mod anything. My Tapco fore end did take a little modification to fit(Use The Hungarian AK fore Ends). The valve is the same one Kingman uses on almost all the Spyders. It has two number O15 Buna o rings that look perfect so I don't know why it would leak.. Just thought some one would have a better idea. I'll just replace them and hope it stops... Thanks again for your help..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 7:24 pm 
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I just replaced them and it still is leaking.. Replaced the Cup Seal and now air
is gushing out everywhere.. Is there supposed to be a O ring on the Valve pin just before the Cup Seal? Because the Cup Seal does not seal anything. It's a
very hard plastic (Delrin) that pushes against the Valve Body to seal the Valve and I don't see it as being air tight as hard as it is... The spyder repair kits come with a very small O ring that looks like it goes between the cup seal and the valve.. Or maybe that O ring I see is just the Velocity screw o ring, I don't know... HELP ME!! I'm frustrated...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 9:13 pm 
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OK. OK. I'm here. Everyone is correct. The first thing to check is the cup seal. Nine times out of ten that is what leaks on a Spyder clone ( which is a design much older than a Spyder)

You replaced the cup seal and now it really leaks. Hmmmm. Sounds like the cup seal........as strange as it seems. Do this. Take the old cup seal, soak it in oil for about an hour (any kind of oil) and then put it back in the gun. I would bet it stops leaking. Oil softens plastics (including nylon, delrin, and urethane, and any other material cup seals are made of)

The valve pin is just a stop. It keeps the valve from shooting out the back of the gun when you put 800 psi on it. There is a brass screw that hold the valve in too. It is under the grip. The only mistake you can make with it is screwing it in really tight, which jacks the valve up and can cause a leak.

The only other thing than can leak are the two o-rings on the valve. You are correct. They are O-15 o-rings and they rarely leak because they don't move........unless you jack the valve up with the valve screw.

Finally, CO2 is notoriously dirty. Gas moves at the speed of sound. Dirt moving at the speed of sound can scar the face of the valve and cause a leak, but cup seals are so (relatively) soft that this is pretty rare.

The chances that your replacement cup seal is bad (scratched, threads off center, etc) is a much more likely scenario than anything else. If you can't figure it out, we can always fix it for you.

And for the rest of you.........click on the TACAMO banner, click on HELP,, and click on both animations. James and Aaron put a lot of hard hours in making the graphics. Somebody had better darn well watch them :)


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