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 Post subject: Paintmine
PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 10:41 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:56 am
Posts: 827
Location: TENNESSEE! THE VOLUNTEER STATE
Originally Written by fastlearner on the MilSimOG, I am just adding it to the MilSimE and it is his info. It is good info and I would like to see it live on after the MilsimOG is no more. Thank you fastlearner for the info.

The following are the steps for building Fastlearner's "Claymore" style paintmine.

Overview: The “Claymore” was conceived as an inexpensive response to oppositions that are composed mainly of well practiced/experienced teams who either move fast or use an A.P.C. Enclosed are plans for the “Equivalent”. If bought in bulk the cost of parts for 5 units is about the same as a case of mid grade paint (~$55) Please note that all steps involving cementing PVC components should be performed without glue “dry fitted”, at first, to check for best fit and positioning of the chamber, reservoir, and nozzles.

Tools:
Saw
Drill
Bits
Screwdriver
File or rasp
Crescent wrench or channel lock pliers

Parts List: (For 5 units)
Note: Lowes is recommended as the springs are stronger than those from Home Depot resulting in very reliable operation. However any spring that fits down ¾ “ PVC, cradles the 12g cartrige and forcibly drives it into the screw is acceptable.

Small can “purple” PVC primer
Small can “Heavy Duty” PVC cement
6 ft ¾” SCH 40 PVC Pipe cut into 1¾” segments (7 per unit)
10 qty bag ¾” SCH 40 PVC “T” Fitting (2 per unit)
10 qty bag ¾” SCH 40 PVC “90*” Elbow Fitting (2 per unit)
10 qty ¾” SCH 40 PVC “45*” Elbow Fitting (2 per unit)
10 qty ¾” SCH 40 PVC “Socket to Thread coupler” (2 per unit)
5 qty ¾” SCH 40 PVC “Threaded Plug” (1 per unit)
5 qty ¾” SCH 40 PVC “Cap” (1 per unit)
6 qty compression springs from Lowes # C-756 (1 per unit)
5 qty 1/8” dia cotter pins (1 per unit) +spares
5 qty ~ 1” Sheet metal (or other sharp) #8 screw (1 per unit)
5 qty ¾” washers or pennies (1 per unit)
15 qty Plastic tent stakes (3 per unit)
5 qty Mouse traps (1 per unit)
As needed “Black” Zip Ties +30 (as needed )
As needed Picture hanger wire as needed
As needed Breakable string trip line as needed
As needed paint for plastic (as primer) as needed
As needed Camo paint as needed

Remember:
Prime both surfaces before gluing
Wipe off excess glue after each joint has set.
Ideally no pipe should be visible between the fittings from the outside

1. Cut the pieces of pipe you’ll need for each unit you intend to build. Debur each piece inside and out with a file or rasp.

2. Using one piece of pipe, cement the two “T” fittings together so that they form an “H”. Before the cement can set quickly adjust the fittings by pressing them to lie flat on a level surface. One “T” will be the firing chamber the other will be the reservoir. Allow the joint to set before the next step ~1 min

3. The firing chamber “T”. Prime and cement a piece of pipe into each end of the firing chamber “T”. Then only prime the “Socket to Thread coupler” fitting. Use extreme care not to get primer or cement on the threads. It will ruin the coupler possibly the unit. Use just enough cement on the exposed pipe to seal one coupler to each end of the firing chamber “T”

4. Reservoir and nozzles. Prime and glue a piece of pipe segment into each end of each 90* elbow. Then wipe off excess glue and allow to dry. Dry fit one 45* elbow onto each 90* elbow. Then, quickly, glue the other end of each 90* elbow to the “T” and “even” the nozzles on a flat surface. There should be enough space (~ 3/16”) between the nozzles and the firing chamber. For compactness the nozzles should be pointed over the firing chamber and if the unit were laid flat the nozzles/reservoir the passage between the reservoir and the firing chamber should be tilted at a ~30* angle from the reservoir pipes that connect to the nozzles. Adjust nozzles for desired spread (90* recommended) and glued into final position

5. Pierce pin. Take one of the threaded plugs and drill a hole appropriate for the screw that will be your pierce pin. IT IS IMPERATIVE TO DRILL THE HOLE AS CLOSE TO CENTER AND AS PERPINDICULAR AS POSSIBLE. The screw must also not be allowed to deviate from perpendicular. The point is struck by a target 3/16” in dia. Misfires will occur if this step is not meticulously followed. The screw need only be advanced ¼” or less through the interior surface to adequately pierce the 12g. Set the depth for reliability.

6. Trigger pin. A 1/8” dia cotter pin that is ¾” long. It does not bend in under the force of the spring. The trigger pinhole will be located on the firing chamber as close to the gas passage as possible. It should be facing the reservoir. The hole should be both as perpendicular to the firing chamber as possible and as parallel to the gas passage as possible. The diameter should be just loose enough to be friction free when inserted without a 12g. Edit* (when inserted the short segment of the cotter pin should butt up against the neck and the long segment should pass just to the side of the neck)

7. Mousetrap. Adding a mousetrap adds devastating sensitivity. Run a black zip tie under the mouse trap spring and attach the trap to the gas passage. The trap should be facing opponent with the bait tab closest to the firing chamber. The cotter pin should be attached to the bale by a length of picture hanger wire. The wire should be routed under the reservoir then up to the bale. *Edited for clarity. There should be enough picture wire so that the bale does not begin to pull on the cotter pin until the bale has traveled 2/3 to 3/4 its full range. This achieves 2 goals. One this allows for safety; the picture wire can be positioned on the side of the bale giving the operator the ability to arm the firing chamber with a reduced chance of the mousetrap triggering the unit while The unit is placed, the TW is laid, or the reservoir is being filled. Two this allows the bale to build up speed/force to reliably. pull the cotter pin

8. Stakes. Using UV resistant (black) wire/zip ties attach the plastic tent stakes to the nozzles. The tent stakes should rest on the nozzles so that the head of the tent stake rests on the back of the 45* nozzle. The top wire tie should pass through the eye of the tent stake and around the neck of the 45* nozzle. This should prevent the unit from “creeping” up and down the tent stake. The second tie should be as low on the stake as possible for strength.

9. Final touches. Painting can be done to suit your tastes and to uniquely identify the device as yours. The threaded portions of the unit should be coated in paraffin wax, dish soap, or other removable material to prevent the paint from becoming the equivalent of “thread locker”. Wax and soap can also be used to improve the operation of the threads. When used on the trigger pin, wax and soap improve the sensitivity of the trigger mechanism.

The unit is now ready for paintball testing.

You have now assembled your equivalent unit and are ready to discharge it.

Paintmine #2

You will need the following support equipment for deploying the unit:
· The equivalent paintmine
· 12g cartridge
· Breakable trip wire (I usually preassemble ~10ft sections of 6lb monofilament with paperclips tied to each end. I then wind then on a small piece of cardboard)
· Paint container (I recommend the 16oz water bottles) They fit in place of a 140rnd pod)

Instructions:

1. First choose an appropriate location per the characteristics of your unit and its intended use.

2. Using two hands firmly push the stakes into the ground

3. Slide the picture hanger wire down the side of the mousetrap bale that corresponds to the firing pin hole.

4. Unscrew the firing pin cap and insert a 12g cartridge

5. Depress the 12g cartridge until the firing pin (cotter pin) can be inserted and restrain the cartridge. This usually means that the long portion of the pin rides over the “neck” of the cartridge and the short pin “buts up” against the neck (See diagram). Initially this takes some practice to get used to the “feel” of setting the trigger pin but it can be set too deep resulting in a heavy trigger pull and failure to trigger.

6. Carefully screw the pierce pin cap into the unit.

7. Lift the mousetrap bale so that you can attach one end of the tripwire to the bait tab.

8. Set and adjust the trip wire as needed

9. Set the mousetrap. Move the picture hanger wire to the end of the bale, CAREFULLY!

10. Fill the reservoir through the nozzles with about 4oz paint. However, the max amount is whatever amount does not enter the firing chamber. Paint will slow down the cartridge as it is propelled towards the piercing pin possibly causing misfire.

The unit is now ready to fire!!!


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